Le Puy’s main-production wine “Emilien” is comprised of 85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Carmenère. After spontaneous fermentation in cement vats, it is transferred to 50-hectoliter foudres for one year, then to old 225-liter barriques for an additional year, before being bottled without fining or filtering. There is a harmony of elements in the wines of Le Puy—a weaving together of acid, fruit, tannin, mineral and earth—that is spellbinding. The “Emilien” offers a succulence of sappy red fruit as well as a driving, tunneling palate of remarkable energy. A subtle but irresistible umami pervades the palate and grounds some of the wine’s higher tones with its savory pull.