Of all the vintages on offer, this 1984—from a difficult, troublesome vintage—is the lightest, the driest-feeling, and the most suitable for an aperitif. Enjoyed on its own or in that context, it offers a pleasurable take on the Fargues terroir marked more by varietal typicity than by the dramatic whomp of botrytis.

While Château d’Yquem was sold to LVMH in the late 1990s, Château de Fargues remains under the control of the Lur-Saluces family, with Alexandre’s friendly and highly capable son Philippe at the helm today. Their lone wine is produced from 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, harvested with meticulous care to only include pristinely botrytized fruit, with yields averaging less than a glass of wine per vine. It is aged for two full years in one-third new oak barrels, then six further months in stainless steel to assemble; fining and filtration are never employed. Emphasizing focus over ultra-richness, Château de Fargues is an elegant, streamlined, varietally expressive Sauternes with outstanding longevity.