Syrah has a particular affinity for the terroir of Yvorne (and, for that matter, for the eastern Vaud and western Valais in general), and Philippe works a 4,000-vine plantation (0.13 hectares) of 30-year-old vines on the Clos du Crosex Grillé’s lower terraces. The Syrah “Cuvée Excellentia” is vinified with 100% whole clusters, and Philippe ages it for a year in 50% new wood before bottling. Though thick and ripe, there is no sense of overextraction here, and the freshness that is a hallmark of this terroir keeps the wine’s spice-inflected, black-fruited personality feeling balanced.