From a 1970 planting in grey marl at the upper part of a southwest-facing slope in L'Etoile, it ferments spontaneously (par for the course here) and spends 18 months in used 500-liter barrels before being bottled without fining or sterile filtration.

The nose explodes: tropical fruit, Indian spice, blocks of salt. Leading with razor-sharp acidity, it is both kinetic and gripping in the mouth, with taut fruit and blasted rocks pummeling the palate. The finish tunnels on, driven by the still-blazing acidity, as a subtle wild note of briny anchovy elevates the already strong umami impression. A simple, quaffable white wine this is not; but if you love the Jura, you absolutely must try it.