Rollin’s basic Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc—always stunning for its price—comprises four separate east-facing parcels with an average vine age of 40 years. It is a tension-filled wine that demonstrates its proximity to the mighty Corton in its profound minerality and its power, yet it displays all the freshness of the Rollin style. Its crystalline nose exudes limestone essence, and the clean, kinetic palate leads to a long and salty finish that leaves the drinker invigorated. The modest 10% new oak is all but invisible.