Paolo Bea Umbria Rosso 'Rosso de Veo' 2019
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Rosso de Veo (“Veo” is the way the family’s name is pronounced in the old Umbrian dialect) is pure Sagrantino sourced from younger vines around the property and from parcels that don’t quite make Giampiero’s rigorous cut for Pagliaro, Pipparello, and Cerrete. This sun-marked 2019, clocking in at 14% alcohol and with a formidable 45-day maceration, is a potent and brooding wine that makes no concessions to polite society. Significant in its tannins, it nonetheless presents them in such a multifaceted way as to transcend their viselike grip; it offers classic sandalwood spice, mineral-saturated depth-charge stoniness, and a vivacious mouthfeel like crunching into dripping-ripe berries.