The limestone-rich red soils of Les Mûres, below which the mother rock lurks at a mere 20 centimeters distance, produce one of this appellation’s finest wines—destined for near-term premier cru status in Pouilly-Loché’s upcoming reconfiguration. Olivier owns a hectare’s worth of 70-year-old Chardonnay here, from which he produces a wine spellbinding in its saline mineral intensity. This cuvée spends 12 months in 500-liter barrels between two and eight years of age, and will develop gorgeously in bottle for well over a decade.