Clos de Vougeot is the defensive lineman to the Echezeaux’s running back—massively scaled and more squarely built. Regis works a third of a hectare of 40-to-45-year-old vines here, and this is, appropriately, the densest and most youthfully inscrutable wine of the lineup, with elemental, blocky minerality, pitch-black fruit, and an overall brooding character that demands cellaring.