Pillot owns a staggeringly old planting of Pinot Noir—from 1910—in this premier cru widely considered to be the best site for red wine in all of Chassagne-Montrachet. Like the most distinguished red-wine terroirs in the Côte d’Or tend to do, Clos Saint-Jean offers both power and finesse, as well as an elemental harmony.

Due to arrive in late Sept.