Pierluigi Lugano, in addition to producing classically saline white wines from a range of indigenous Ligurian varieties, crafts a brisk and delicious Ciliegiolo that sits at the mouthwatering midpoint between a full-bodied rosé and a very light red. Planted on steeply sloped parcels in the town of Campegli, Bisson’s Ciliegiolo is hand-harvested, and undergoes a brief three-day maceration in stainless steel during its fermentation, thereby lending it a beautiful deep-ruby hue and the barest hint of fresh tannins. It combines fruit redolent of tangy cherries and small red berries with a luscious but dynamic palate of marked limestone minerality.