De Fermo’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo proper (named after the local “cinciallegra” bird, known for its loud chirping) shows kinship with the Rosato “Concrete” above in its driving energy and its overall tangy jubilance, but it offers significantly greater depth and complexity as well as a more profound minerality. “Le Cince” is partly rather than fully de-stemmed, given a longer maceration of four hours, and aged in 16-hectoliter Stockinger botti rather than concrete—a regimen which broadens the wine’s texture and emphasizes its structure. Subtle notes of cocoa and fruit leather emerge amidst the swarm of fresh cherries, and the palate displays remarkable tension and length. Plenty expressive in youth, this will develop even greater complexity with cellaring.