The indigenous and little-known Pignolo variety finds an astonishing level of depth, complexity, and visceral power in Gravner’s hands. For this, the “Rosso Breg,” Josko ferments Pignolo spontaneously in subterranean Georgian amphorae, then transfers the wine to well-used Slavonian casks for five years, followed by an astonishing nine years in bottle before release. Kaleidoscopic in its aromas of tobacco, spice, and neutron-star-dense black fruits, the wine all but levitates on the palate despite its intensity, so seamlessly integrated are its elements. A bass note of umami sends this wine into another dimension.