Philippe’s flagship Menetou-Salon Rouge (100% Pinot Noir) offers mesmerizing purity of fruit, with a silken, vibrant texture complementing a sense of mouthwatering sappiness. Fermentation (spontaneous, of course) and aging take place in a massive 90-hectoliter tronconic oak cask, whose large size and relatively low porosity allows Philippe to use a bare minimum of sulfur (40 milligrams per liter in total) during the élevage. The chalky thrust of the terroir asserts itself strongly, even in vintages marked by heat. Biodynamic-certified practices allows Philippe to gain full ripeness at significantly lower degrees of alcohol—a boon in the post-climate-change era, to be sure.