Versino's Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is one of the appellation's best, always maintaining acidity and drive even in the warmest of vintages, and this little Vin de France is cut from the same cloth. Made of 100% Clairette from 30-year-old vines planted in clay-limestone (it's the same vineyard source in Jonquieres as the Petit Oursan Rouge), a blend of vintages which is raised entirely in enameled cuve. Clean, gently floral, and taut but mouthfilling, it shows subtle notes of fresh almonds and fennel; it also completely avoids the confected, fake-yeasted feel that so many wines at this ultra-modest price point suffer from.