Mas de Valériole produces white wines as sprightly and evocative as their rosés, and we are excited to dip into their lineup here with the “Charmentin”—a blend of 70% Rolle (Vermentino) and 30% Chardonnay, fermented in stainless steel and bottled after six months on the fine lees. This is a wine anchored not so much by its acidity, which is adequate yet not assertive, as by the cleansing sense of bitterness left on the palate by the thick-skinned Rolle. A subtle hint of salinity weaves its way into the generous but restrained fruit, and the domaine’s preference for low sulfur shows itself in the wine’s lift and purity.