The crown jewel of the Levet family’s holdings is a 1.2-hectare parcel of old vines at the very summit of the great La Chavaroche vineyard, and the wine they summon from this dizzying slope is among the most iconic in our portfolio. Always arrestingly wild, La Chavaroche possesses an unmistakable musk: a warm-animal profile that feels somehow ancient and unknowable—like some profound riddle of terroir. The 2021, as expected, is firmer and more elementally mineral-driven than Les Journaries, but it is strikingly pretty for a young Chavaroche, with a sense of lift and suppleness complementing its irresistible savory funk.