Jean-Marc makes a mere two barrels of Corton-Charlemagne per vintage, from fruit purchased from his friend Blair Pethel of Domaine Dublère—a parcel, in fact, which used to be worked by the Rollin family and included in their own Corton-Charlemagne before the previous owner sold it to Mr. Pethel. This cuvée is massively scaled—both intensely mineral and nearly unctuous in its sappiness of fruit—and its 50% new oak is all but swallowed by the wine’s sheer concentration.

Due to arrive in late Sept.