Jean-Marc’s friend’s parcel in Les Raclots is 60 years old, planted in the appellation’s classic clay-limestone terrain. This cuvée offers a similar saline impression to the Les Gaudoirs, but with greater power and depth of fruit, and a sense of underlying richness that stops short of viscosity. Les Raclots more than holds its own against some of Jean-Marc’s rounder Chassagne-Montrachet 1er crus, and it should age terrifically.

Due to arrive in late Sept.