Les Gaudoirs is situated on a limestone plateau, and this cuvée comes from a parcel of 30-year-old Chardonnay planted in extremely stony, pebbly soils. It wears its 20% new oak very well (Jean-Marc is particularly deft in his balancing of wood and wine), and offers electric acidity and a salty, palate-staining minerality. It’s a crystalline and stylish wine very much in line with his Chassagne-Montrachet crus, and it offers tremendous value.