Though far from being fundamentalist about it, the Michels produce a number of cuvées with no added sulfur dioxide, and “Beauduc”—pure Marselan, a crossing of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon particularly well suited to the climatic specificities of the south of France—is a sterling example of their acumen in that regard. With appetizing black and dark red fruits, wispy spice, and a subtle undercurrent of foxy earthiness, this steel-aged wine is clean, juicy and beautifully balanced.