Whereas much of the Jura’s fabled vin jaune leans heavily into its walnut-like oxidative heaviness, Michel’s is simultaneously elegant and unabashedly wild, offering kaleidoscopic complexity and leading with notes of fresh almonds and marzipan. Shockingly, although the category requires patient aging and a somewhat hands-off approach, some vin jaune is not only yeasted to induce fermentation, but yeasted to produce voile as well; Michel’s, of course, ferments naturally, develops its veil of yeast on its own, and is never augmented with sulfur dioxide. The result—having spent seven years in cask and capable of aging in bottle for a lifetime—offers colossal, eye-popping acidity, assertive brine-like minerality, and a nut-paste finish that simply doesn’t end. He only produces it in certain vintages and gives it plenty of bottle age before putting it up for sale, making each release an especially special and rare occasion.