Christopher’s Pinot Gris, AKA Grauburgunder, shows the chiseled minerality, saline intensity, and murmuring breadth of all his wines. This eschews the variety’s tendency toward opulence in favor of something more laser-like, though it does not lack for oomph. Straden is the name of Neumeister’s home village within Vulkanland Steiermark, so consider this as a village-level wine.