Sylvain owns a mere quarter-hectare of Aligoté, planted in 1997, in a vineyard called Les Pierres whose upper section is classified as Chassagne-Montrachet Villages. Round but tense, this spent 12 months in used 350-liter barrels, resting on its fine lees with no stirring of the lees. Aligoté reaches a different textural register when given a proper élevage, and indeed Sylvain’s is of a piece with his remarkable Chassagne-Montrachet bottlings in that regard; it’s a salty little dynamo.