Sylvain’s 0.4 parcel of Chardonnay in the renowned premier cru Champs-Gains was planted back in 1952 by his grandfather Albert, and he employs an 18-month élevage in one-quarter-new 350-liter barrels, bottling it without filtration. Here, the generosity of the above village-level wine is deemphasized in favor of gunflint and smoke; this borderline-stern minerality works in tandem with the texturally luscious fruit profile to create something of striking complexity and kinetic energy, buttressed by a lurking sense of power. The old vines express themselves in the wine’s persistent, blossoming finish.