With En Caillerets we see the stones assume control. Another very old parcel, Sylvain’s third of a hectare of selection-massale Chardonnay here was planted in 1950 by Albert, and as with Champs-Gains he uses 25% new barrels in its 18-month élevage. The tunneling, palate-commanding minerality veers into the realm of salt, leaving a drier impression on the finish than the wines above and promising plenty of cellar upside. Even amidst such dominating mineral presence, however, a glimmer of pretty fruit peeks out—a Sylvain signature.