Both a wine and a mission statement, “No Autoclave” is anchored by Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, and blended with Lambrusco di Sorbara and the autochthonous white grape Pignoletto in varying ratios depending on the year, and all three grapes are co-fermented. This wine soars from the glass aromatically: tangerine, earthy cherry, wild herbs, a wisp of appetizing volatility, Szechuan peppercorn; it’s a real maelstrom that manages to come together on a tangy palate of remarkable precision, with a clinging yet pure texture that somehow puts one in the mind of great Alpine wine, and subtle bubbles that hang back and let the vinous core of the wine shine through.