From meager-yielding vines in Arbois planted in 1943, Emeric produces but a single cask of Poulsard even in a full harvest—a 15-hectoliter barrel whose grungy exterior (it has been used for almost 40 vintages, after all) belies the enchanting wine held within. Vinification and aging are straightforwardly anti-tech: full de-stemming, spontaneous fermentation with no temperature control, three-week maceration, aging for 18 months, and bottling without fining or sterile filtration. The nose alone is worth the price of admission: cardamom, rose petals, roasted root vegetables slathered in cinnamon; earthy but pure, and overflowing with the kind of spice whose siren song led men to treacherous sea voyages in centuries past. The palate, sappy and succulent, echoes the nose in its complexity, yet it glides, lifts, and swells effortlessly, leaving clinging, cleansing stoniness in its wake.