Bashfully extracted, pale-colored gluggers abound in the world of Jura reds, and it is refreshing to encounter a grower who bucks that trend. In fact, Emeric’s approach to Trousseau harkens back to that of his former employer Jacques Puffeney, who produced dense and relatively serious examples of the variety that developed for years in the cellar. From vines in Montigny-les-Arsures (“The Capital of Trousseau,” as a sign in the town square proudly proclaims) and Poligny, Emeric’s Trousseau is boisterous, tangy, spicy, and sappy, with just-so structure and a commanding finish. It ferments naturally and spends two winters in rickety barrels in Emeric’s no-nonsense cellar without temperature stabilization, fining, or filtration.