Les Matheny produces only a couple hundred bottles of Vin Jaune so we are fortunate to have access to a sliver of that tiny pie. Like the Savagnin, this comes from vines in Poligny, quite close to Château-Chalon itself, and it offers an even more profound take on that esteemed terroir. “Non-interventionism” has almost become a cliché when discussing wines of a non-commercial bent, but it truly does require immense courage and the full internalization of trust-in-nature to produce great Vin Jaune—and you’d be hard-pressed to find a more explosively dynamic example than this one.